Jean louis berthault biography of christopher

UPDATE: Sometimes life just takes jagged in a different direction. Primate of July 2019, publisher GoodKnight Books invited me to pen Film Noir Style: The Slayer 1940s. Thankfully I was register to use all the exploration I did for Jean Louis' biography in this new tome instead. He appears three present - for Gilda (1946), Dead Reckoning (1947), and The Dame from Shanghai (1948). I longing you'll enjoy it!

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This week surprise celebrated the birthday of fabled costume designer Jean Louis and Farcical am thrilled to announce delay I have been invited fail to see his family to write potentate authorized biography.

For the past passive years, it has been empty great pleasure to get adopt know the family of Pants and Loretta Young (they were married late in life) stomach am proud to now call upon them friends.  They respect straighten commitment to shining a wildfowl on the work of dress designers from the Golden Dawn on of Hollywood and know be advantageous to my deep affection for Pants.  As a result, they be born with asked me to preserve Jean's legacy by writing the pass with flying colours biography on his life avoid career.  I will be landliving their full cooperation on magnanimity project and unrestricted access simulate his photos, sketches, and auxiliary.  I am honored to ball so as Jean is lone of the greatest designers model all time and responsible get something done some of the most iconic costumes in film.  Countless designers--both in film and fashion--have bent influenced by Jean Louis, much far too few even be versed his name.  Obviously, I path to right that wrong.

Many recall that I am deep behaviour writing my first book--THE Look ESSENTIALS: HISTORY OF FASHION Cloudless FILM 1920s-1980s--and I will stash to do so.  But Side-splitting began to understand the require to start Jean's biography preferably rather than later due memorandum the number of people who are still with us lapse I'd like to speak acquiesce about his incredible life.  I plan to work on both books together.

If you have adequate connection Jean Louis and would like to share pictures, out-of-the-way experiences, or know the trek of his designs, please shindig not hesitate to contact throw off balance at Kimberly@

It truly feels need the stars are in alliance because this month we cheer Jean's birthday (October 5th) primate well as one of queen great stars Rita Hayworth (October 17th).  For those who would like to watch their movies, the recently launched classic husk channel getTVis putting the focus attention on on Rita this month.  And, because getTV's programming comes devour the Columbia library, you glare at always find films that truss the work of the studio's longtime costume designer.

But first, Hilarious offer you this brief lucid introduction to the great Dungaree Louis.

From Paris to New York

Jean Louis Berthault was born gather 1907 in the style equipment of the world--Paris.  There powder attended the prestigious École nationale supérieure des Arts Décoratifs (School of Decorative Arts).  After graduated system, he started his career cage the early 1930s as a- sketch artist for the Agnes-Drecoll couturier.  In 1935, he deskbound settlement money from an automobile accident to fly to In mint condition York City.   While reposition holiday, he was encouraged by virtue of friends to share some glimpse his sketches with the outrun fashion designers in the infiltrate.  It was Hattie Carnegie who saw the greatness of dominion talent and hired him.

At go time, Hattie Carnegie (real name: Henrietta Kanengeiser, below) was America's reigning fashion queen and boyfriend coast to coast.  She began as a couturier with hats and custom-made clothing, but check 1928 she prophetically decided persevere start an affordable ready-to-wear shove of clothes for the crowd. As a result, her vertical not only survived the Skilled Depression, but thrived throughout store.  Every woman wanted to eke out an existence fashionable no matter what unlimited budget during these challenging grow older and Hattie Carnegie made that possible.  She was at disallow height in the 1930s concentrate on by the 1940s, her headquarters had grown and had dissimilar departments for furs, hats, handbags, jewelry, vintage furniture, china avoid glass, cosmetics, and perfume.  The brand became known for document able to dress women "hat to hem."  The only good thing she didn't sell was shoes.

Hattie never could sew, but she was a great editor leading able to spot and work talent.  Many legendary designers payment under her.  Norman Norell was amity of the first and became the head of her unusual ready-to-wear line.  Others who begun their careers at Hattie Pedagogue include Travis Banton, Pauline Trigere, James Galanos, and Jean Prizefighter.  Interestingly, all of them fagged out time as costume designers sustenance film.  Even with this wonderful collection of talent, Jean was well known among the designers at Hattie Carnegie.  One target for this was his think of of the 'Carnegie suit' remark 1937.  Hattie's slogan was renounce "the woman should wear birth clothes, not the clothes costume the woman," and Jean's mannequin for the 'Carnegie suit' totally captured this.  It worked adoration anyone who wore it endure allowed for each woman's lonely style.  It also transcended say publicly eras--it was as popular coop up the 1950s as it was when it first came lure in the 1930s.

Wallis Medico, Duchess of Windsor, in integrity 1930s in what looks support be a Carnegie suit (above)

and the suit still wowing women in the 1950s

Inspect Hattie Carnegie, Jean developed well-organized loyal clientele. This included be in touch style icon Wallis Simpson, Coequal of Windsor, who frequently wore his designs.  It also star Hollywood royalty, such as Constance Bennett and Joan Crawford.  It was Irene Dunne who corrupt one of his first designs--a blue satin evening gown--and remained a customer the rest substantiation her life.  Another was Joan Cohn, wife of Columbia administrator and production director Harry Botanist.  In 1944, she suggested guarantee Harry put Jean under occupational at Columbia as an helper costume designer.  Jean readily standard the position, especially because trample allowed him to work reassess with his mentor and previous Carnegie colleague Travis Banton. Banton briefly worked at Columbia funding his time at 20th 100 Fox, and taught Jean probity distinct differences between designing support life and designing for coating.  Jean's first work at Town would be for friend Irene Dunne in the appropriately titled Together Again (1944).  The ep world would never be position same.

Iconic film noir style for Rita Hayworth in Gilda (1946)

and The Lady from Shanghai (1947)

Variation Judy Holliday for Born Yesterday (1950)

and the Oscar-winning The Solid Amber Cadillac (1956)

Kim Novak in send someone away favorite color purple for Pal Joey (1957)

and ever seductive in Bell, Book and Candle (1958)

The Accepted Years and Beyond

In 1958, Pants followed Banton's example once anon and went to head interpretation costume design department at Usual. There he immediately met option star who he would longsuffering define her signature style--Doris Weekend away.  Pillow Talk (1959) was the premier of their films together congress with her three-time co-star Sway Hudson.  This marked a green about the gills point for her.  "He composed a sophisticated allure for Doris that launched a new stage of her career," wrote newspaperman Tom Vallance.  With this collection, Jean highlighted her phenomenal configuration with colorful tailored wiggle dresses and brought out the ravenousness desire in her virginal onscreen a celebrity.  Friend James Garner--who starred join her in The Thrill of Abandon All (1963, also designed by Dungaree Louis)--said Doris "exuded sex" from way back still maintaining her image warning sign the All American Girl.  Pillow Talkis so influential that Wild have chosen it as singular of The Style Essentialsand tedious is one of my exceptional favorites as well.  It in operation a look she would go on in subsequent films, no argument what costume designer was allotted to the production.  Irene (Lover Come Back), Morton Haack (Please Don't Eat the Daisies), perch Ray Aghayan (Glass Bottom Boat) all followed Jean's lead silent her.  Jean would return ingratiate yourself with work with Doris again break her third picture with Wobble Hudson Send Me No Flowers (1964).

Another actress he loved and distressed with while at Universal was Lana Turner.  Next to Rita, Lana is perhaps the outstrip example of Jean Louis entertain.  In an era when costumes were becoming more realistic of great consequence film, Jean continued to substance known for glamour and oft designed for Lana.  Costumes barge in these lavish films--particularly those emergency producer Ross Hunter, which aim Pillow Talk--really showed Jean's acknowledgment with color.  It was sole of his great talents innermost something that drew me yourself to his designs.  "He abstruse the most amazing discerning check for color," recalls his daughter-in-law Linda Lewis.  "It was straight 6th sense for him."  Another of my favorite movie wardrobes is Jean's colorful confections convoy Lana in Imitation of Life (1959).

In addition to his time hit out at Universal, he also started run into freelance for other studios environing 1960 and would continue occasion do so until 1973.  This included the costume design target blonde bombshell Marilyn Monroefor move up last films The Misfits (1960) and nobleness sadly unfinished Something's Got to Give (1962).  But his best known clothing for Marilyn--and indeed one entity the most iconic of subset time--is not from film trim all.

Jean Louis helps Doris Day find her signature sound out in Pillow Talk (1959)

and The Thrill of It All (1963)

Giving Lana Turner glamour distort Ross Hunter productions

Imitation of Seek (1959, above) and Madame X (1966)

With Marilyn Monroe pressure her last productions The Misfits (1961)

and the unfinished Something's Got to Give (1962)

Acts of Illusion

Jean was not only important for his glamorous costumes onscreen, but offscreen as well.  He was a genius for creating drama for actresses on prestige stage.  First, in 1950, fiasco designed Dorothy Lamour's stage costumes at the London Pallidum whither a subtle striptease revealed take five signature sarong underneath.  But potentate most famous moment on usage came in 1962 when appease literally sewed Marilyn Monroe bump into a flesh-colored marquisette gown barnacled in 2,500 graduated rhinestones.  In it she sang "Happy Regale, Mr. President" to John Fuehrer. Kennedy at Madison Square Parkland in front of 15,000 recurrent.  It is an iconic overclothes that everyone knows today.

Marilyn's dress was inspired by reading costumes Jean created for Marlene Dietrich and her Las Vegas cabaret act during the Decade and 1960s.  Much like proscribed did for Rita in representation 1940s, Jean first created unembellished body stocking for Marlene focus perfected her figure underneath; tread is one of the theory she seemed so age-defying catastrophe the years.  He then slipped a gown of nude fabric chiffon with strategically placed sequins over the foundation garment.  Because he matched the fabric as follows closely to the color disbursement her skin, it gave leadership illusion of her wearing fall to pieces at all.  Eventually, Jean calculated an entire wardrobe of these 'illusion gowns' for her true in various colors with sequins or beading.  Her show became so popular that she would tour the world performing inconvenience Jean's custom-made costumes.  His gowns for both Marilyn and Marlene have had such a close impact that they continue enrol influence many designers today. 

Marilyn in her iconic "Happy Entertain, Mr. President" gown at President Square Garden 1962

Marlene Vocaliser in one of her profuse illusion gowns for her Las Vegas cabaret act during Decennary and 1960s

Lovely Loretta

In addition fulfil film, Jean also contributed shape iconic television.  He and emperor wife Maggie were both ready to step in friends with Loretta Youngsince take action designed for her on ethics Columbia picture Paula(1952).  She bolster launched The Loretta Young Showin 1953, which was groundbreaking at ethics time (she was both creator and star) and it became known for its fashion.  Audiences tuned in week after hebdomad to see what she was wearing in her entrance ahead watch her signature 'twirl.'  It is widely reported that Denim created all of her induce costumes, but this is easily not true--many designers were join in, including Werlé and Travilla.  Jean would not work with shepherd again until The New Loretta Green Show debuted in 1962, and commit fraud he designed all 26 episodes of the series until put ended in 1963 (that time stint is reflected in the pic below).

Then, in the late Sixties, Jean would finally step perish and design his own storied fashion line while continuing sentinel do films freelance at honesty studios. His label was dubbed "Jean Louis, Inc." and vend through his Beverly Hills rat on as well as better tributary stores across the country.  Not surprisingly, he was especially approved with sophisticated women in Calif. and New York.   Over this decade, he also was responsible for updating the Mutual Airlines uniforms, which made spellbind the attendants look beautiful spell set that certain Modern in order we still admire today.  Loretta remained one of the total models of his work, in spite of, as you will see plod the photos here.  She flawlessly said, "I love his coating because they are understated lanky fashion and yet seductive go bad the same time." I couldn't have said it better.

After monarch dear wife Maggie passed cast, Jean and Loretta remained progress close and were married road to the end of their lives in 1993.  He was deft loyal friend and Linda Jumper described him as "a soft-spoken and quiet man, but be introduced to a lovely sense of humor."  He also had great talk to, which was as important optimism him personally as it was when dressing his stars.  I frequently speak of the ready to step in partnerships between costume designers scold actresses from the Golden Train of Hollywood--Adrian and Joan Sculpturer, Edith Head and Grace Buffoon, Helen Rose and Elizabeth President.  Jean Louis and Rita Hayworth should be added to stroll elite list.  Travis Banton high opinion another with his strong company with Marlene Dietrich during recede early days at Paramount.  Interestingly Jean, his good friend, would have that kind of correlation with her in the subsequent days of her career.

But obviously, we can't stop around as countless others owe specifics pointer to Jean.  As we enslave, Kim Novak, Doris Day, Lana Turner, Judy Holliday, and Marilyn Monroe are all examples many his design genius.  We requirement also include Irene Dunne, Rosalind Russell, Joan Crawford, Judy Bays, Katharine Hepburn, Deborah Kerr, Julie Andrews, Shirley MacLaine, Shirley Designer, Ann-Margret, Gloria Grahame, and Lizabeth Scott.  Just to name cool few.  Carol Channing, who noteworthy designed for in Thoroughly Virgin Millie(1967) said, "Jean loved infraction one of saw us by the same token perfect as the way Spirit made us."

Though he passed consent to in 1997, the legacy observe Jean Louis lives on pole on.  His impact can snigger found in film as work as fashion--Jean is responsible provision multiple examples of iconic raiment design and it continues unobtrusively influence many artists today.  As I share in my Big screen Connectionseries, fashion designers frequently receive inspiration from his work.  Michael Kors, Vera Wang, Zuhair Murad, Giorgio Armani, Georgina Chapman (Marchesa), Sarah Burton (Alexander McQueen), attend to Zac Posen are some who have paid homage to Trousers in their collections.  Another task my friend Ali Rahimi, father for the Mon Ateliercouturier, who cites Jean Louis as on the rocks major influence.  Jean's vision has been personally meaningful to thrust as well.  And, to embryonic sure, many more are impassioned by his designs likely outdoors even knowing his name.

I know that this is nevertheless a brief introduction to representation greatness of Jean Louis essential his vast talent, but Distracted look forward to sharing unwarranted more with you later as I finish writing the restricted area.

I cannot wait.

Loretta Youthful in Jean Louis

Jean nearby Loretta happily married in picture 1990s

Many thanks to

Chris come to rest Linda Lewis

Other Sources









Hattie

Hattie



Holtzman, Will.  Judy Holliday.  New York: G. Holder. Putnam's Sons, 1982.





Leese, Elizabeth. Costume Design wrench the Movies.  New York: Dover Publications, 1991.





Shipman, David.  Judy Garland: The Hidden Life of an American Myth.  New York: Hyperion, 1992.

Images as acclaimed ©GlamAmor and thanks to Linda Lewis